4 - varanassi - along the holy ganga

we left gorakpur pretty early to head south to varanassi.  we were able to fix our reverse gear and tighten some bolts with the help of a groundskeeper.  the roads were better than usual.  we've all crashed into something at least once so far.  we stopped in a few small towns to ask for directions along the way.  i was served fresh road-side mango lassi, made with local water and ice, and i drank it against my better judgement.  delicious.  i think now i've broken every piece of advice given.

our auto was making strange noises in the higher gears so we stopped in a town called Mau where we gathered a large crowd.  we made a friend our age named Vishnu who helped us out a lot getting it repaired and we talked a lot to him.  he has since called sonny's phone a few times and talked to all of us.  we are invited to his home to meet his family the next time we are in Mau.  we talked to locals about the differences between the US and India and what we liked so far along our journey.  the people would beam with pride when we told them we thought their country was beautiful.  it was a great experience.  our engine was tuned for cheap and then we left for varanassi.

we experienced rain driving for the first time.  our wiper only moves along about a 3cm path, not very useful.  sonny's stomach was hurting a lot along the way but unfortunately the villages we stopped in did not have toilets.  all they could offer was a coke bottle filled with water to wash up with.

we made it to varanassi through more crazy crowded street driving, found a hotel and met a US couple on a vacation.  we talked to them and they showed us the local paper where an article featured our race.  brian and i went out to a local lassi shop to get some bhang lassi.  Saam's lassi it was called and the owner saam was a very cool guy.  i got mine very strong, brian got his medium.  we drank them and headed back to eat the food.  we ordered a pizza that was quite different than in the US, but we were all very satisfied with the attempt.  much of our car talk lately has been about fast food we miss.

at around 6 we left with a boatsman down to the ganges river, the most holy river in hinduism.  you could see instantly why people would think it was holy, pray to it.  there were hundreds of temples (i've heard 365) lining the river with stairs leading down to the water.  people were bathing in the river, there were fires at the ghats where bodies were being cremated and there were just tons of people out.  we got to see the sunset.  it was incredibly beautiful and spiritual.  there was awesome live music coming from many of the ghats.  we watched the ceremonies from the boat. the three of us probably had unique experiences, but profound realizations were certainly reached. i would recommend visitng this amazing place to everyone, its a shame we couldnt stay longer.

i asked if i could jump into the water and after some conversation the boatsman agreed.  they say swimming in the water of the ganga cleanses your body of all sin.  if you die in the river you go immediately to heaven.  same if you drink water from the river with your last dying breath, which is why many indian people keep vials of the water in their homes.   i stayed under the water for a while and felt amazing.  i am eternally grateful to have experienced it.

back on land someone gave me a ride to a barber shop where i got a shave andmy face washed for like $2 with tip.  it felt great to be clean after so much dirtyness.  sonny learned in the barbers he went to that obama won the nomination, and we were all happy about that.  i met a guy in the barbershop who gave me a ride back on his motorcycle.  back in the hotel the three of us got hour long massages from these two guys.  felt great after all the driving.  i went immediately to sleep.

i dont think i've achieved enlightenment or anything like that, but i have had certain realizations and new perspectives that will help guide me on the journey that is life.  my heart goes out to all the people we've seen in india, and all my loved ones back home.  i cant wait to meet with you all again.

-allen